The female body harnesses unyielding power. It is the custodian of intellect, wit,
seduction and gestures that transform it into a manifesto of personality. Ermanno Scervino’s fall-winter 2024/2025 collection dissects the body and clothing as its armor. Sculptural delicacy
and hard-edged femininity are brought to the catwalk, clothing tilting on the edge, between sharp and protective and revealing and welcoming. Fashion is a tool of self-assertion. The gesture of placing hands on the hips cinching the waist, of bare legs striding, of clutching outerwear around the body are all
signifiers of womanly confidence. Combining soft and hard edges, Ermanno
Scervino refashions its key codes adding a somber dash of mystery. Self-consciousness needs no claims.
Heritage menswear fabrics - from pinstriped to grisaille wool - are plied into exquisite tailoring with hidden elaborate constructions, from the hourglass-y blazers sculpting the body and drop-shoulder herringbone overcoats caressing it, to the enveloping bustier dresses in double wool boasting inner wizardry to sketch the silhouette. Gunmetal gray suits come with roomy pants contributing to dramatic
strides and shrunken blazers and spencer jackets. A focal point throughout Ermanno
Scervino’s prolific fashion oeuvre, corsetry becomes an insignia of seduction, recurring throughout in different iterations, from the double wool bras paired with intarsia midi skirts to the nude-colored, hand-quilted version on midi frocks and the embroidered numbers on floor-sweeping,
see-through organza gowns.
Crocodile embossed leather becomes an armor, a metaphor for women changing their skin in reaction to the times, on broad-shouldered, waist-nipping cabans and shearling-lined peacoats with knit yarn embroideries, as well as on sensual bustier dresses. The play on proportions is enhanced by fluffy hand-embroidered
après-ski boots in faux fur, matched to shearling and mongolian jackets, and
sock boots with high heels.